How to get a first time home buyer program

Buying your first home requires careful consideration of your cash, credit, and income. A first-time homebuyer is anyone who has not owned a house or any real estate in the last 2 years. Here’s what you need to know… The reality of it is that there aren’t any special first-time homebuyer programs out there in the marketplace anymore. Being a first-time homebuyer does not mean what it used to. If you are thinking of buying your first home in a few years, please read on…

 

When most people ask the question do you have any 1st time home buyer programs? What they’re asking is do you have any programs that don’t require any down payment?

Let’s take a step back for example for a minute, shall we? Do you think you should make that large of a high-ticket purchase without any money?

If you don’t have money for a down payment more than likely it’s probable that you probably don’t have 3- 6 months or more of savings in the bank in case your financial circumstances change, or something financially goes wrong right?  Don’t buy a house just because everyone else is doing it. Buy a house because you are ready and can afford it.

Yes, this might be a cold heart dose of reality, but better to have a cold dose of reality and get a course correction in your home buying plan than to buy a house you cannot afford, and then find yourself in a financial predicament which could carry dire financial consequences over the long haul right?

That said, you don’t need to buy a house with the old school 20% down. 20% down is the mantra in lending that you need to have to avoid paying foreclosure insurance also known as private mortgage insurance or PMI for short. On average PMI can cost %70 to $80 per month per $100k borrowed per month so if you look at a payment of several $100 a month, that means you must have the income to offset that plus the principal interest taxes and home insurance payment as well. If you are buying a condominium you must add in on top of that homeowner’s association payment.

It’s not just the down payment either when you buy a house. You are also responsible for closing costs. Closing can run 2 to 2.5% of the purchase price. It’s the same thing if you’ve ever financed a car. When you finance a car you have tax, docks, and, licensing at the card dealer becomes applicable and the same applies when you buy a house.

The reality of it is if you want to buy a house in most markets you need to have a down payment of at least 3.5 for FHA and 5% down for conventional loan programs. Those two programs present a surefire way to get your foot in the door. As a good financial rule of thumb, it is also wise to consider having 3-6 months of savings in the bank plus your down payment plus closing costs, don’t, have it? Maybe you have savings in the bank, but you don’t have the money to further cash.  Be proactive- swallow your pride and ask mom or dad or grandma or grandpa or a family member for help. There’s no shame in asking someone for help and you might just come to find family is willing to help family more than you think.

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RELATED MORTGAGE ADVICE FROM SCOTT SHELDON

When buying a home, it’s natural to want the lowest mortgage rate possible. But sometimes, chasing a slightly better rate from another lender—especially after your offer has already been accepted—can backfire in a big way. Let’s walk through a real-world scenario. You’ve got an offer accepted on a house. You’re working with a lender who has you approved, documents in underwriting, and a 21-day close of escrow in place. Everything is moving forward. Then you hear from another lender offering a rate that’s 0.25% lower, with slightly better closing costs. It’s tempting. But before you make a jump, here’s what you need to consider. Switching Lenders Comes with Time Costs When you pivot to a new lender mid-contract, they’ll need to: Re-underwrite your entire loan, Order a new appraisal, Disclose and sign new loan documents, Submit the file for final loan approval, Schedule and fund closing—all over again. This doesn’t happen overnight. Even in ideal circumstances, the new lender is likely going to need at least 25–30 days to close. If you’re in a fast-moving or competitive market, this is a real problem. Most sellers won’t grant a contract extension just because you’re switching lenders. So, what happens next? A Contract Extension Can Jeopardize Your Deal Asking for a contract extension means the seller must agree to delay closing. But that delay introduces risk—especially if the seller has backup offers or simply wants certainty. They may not grant the extension. Or worse, they could cancel the deal outright and take another buyer’s offer. Even if the seller agrees to extend, your earnest money and negotiation power could take a hit. And for what? A slightly lower rate that might save you $50 to $75 a month? Mortgage Rates Aren’t as Far Apart as You Think Here’s the truth: all mortgage lenders get their money from the same place—the bond market. The pricing differences between lenders usually range from 0.125% to 0.25% in rate on any given day. If one lender seems to be offering dramatically better pricing, the first thing you should ask is: How? Head over to FreddieMac.com and check the average 30-year fixed rate posted weekly. This is one of the most reliable benchmarks for where rates truly stand in the market. If a lender is quoting you a rate that’s well below that average, ask for the details: Are they charging extra points? Is this a teaser rate with a prepayment penalty? Is it based on a different loan product or risky structure? Often, what sounds “too good to be true”… is. Consider the Bigger Picture Think long-term. If you’re financing $600,000, a 0.25% lower rate may reduce your payment by roughly $75/month. But what if you lose the house and have to start over? That monthly savings doesn’t mean much if you’re outbid on your dream home or lose your deposit. Also, remember: you’re not going to keep this rate forever. Today’s homebuyers typically refinance when rates drop by about 0.75% or more. So if rates fall within the next year or two, you’ll likely be refinancing anyway. Instead of paying extra points now or risking the entire deal for a minor monthly savings, it may be better to accept a slightly higher rate—knowing you’ll refinance when the time is right. The Real Risk Isn’t the Rate—It’s the Delay When shopping for a home loan, don’t just ask, “What’s your rate?” Ask: Can you close on time? Is this rate sustainable or based on hidden costs? Will switching lenders delay or jeopardize my contract? A home purchase contract is a binding agreement between you and the seller to perform within a set timeframe. If you can’t meet those dates because you're chasing a slightly better rate elsewhere, you may want to reconsider if now is the right time to buy. Final Thoughts Yes, interest rates matter. But execution matters more. Before making a switch mid-transaction, talk to your lender. Have an honest conversation about pricing, timelines, and strategy. You might find that staying the course, securing the house, and planning to refinance later offers a better path to financial security. Want to Know Your Options? Let’s compare rates and strategies the smart way—without risking your dream home. 👉 Click here to get a custom rate quote today.

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